Wet season/Dry season: This method is sometimes used to start the breeding cycle. A simulation of the dry and then wet season stimulates the dendrobatidae to start courtship and egg laying. This is done by holding off and misting and feeding less frequently. Try this for a couple weeks and then start the wet season. Proceed to mist the tank more frequently. Once or twice a day and feed the frogs every or every other day. I like to feed mine daily and it has worked very well for my D. Leucomela breeds. Do not forget to use supplements on the feeder bugs to help prevent SLS ( Spindly Leg Syndrome).

Laying sites: Depending on the species of frogs you are working with, there are different types of laying sites. With the larger breeds like Tinctorius, Auratus, Leucomelas, Galactonuos, Terribilis and others a coco hut ( coconut cut in half) with a small lid underneath is the most commonly used. These species also sometimes lay on flat, broad leafs, like Bromiliads. For the smaller "thumbnail" species, a film cannister is usually preferred. Which color cannister do they prefer? Not sure exactly, it all depends on the individual frogs preference. Some breeders say black, some breeders say white. Try both and see which ones collect the eggs. 

Egg/tadpole care: This is pretty easy. Once you have some eggs you have to decide if you will let the parents care for them or if you want to take on the task. If you choose to do it yourself, take the dish with the eggs on it and put it in a tubberware with slight ventilation. You will want to check on them frequently to make sure they do not dry out. Spray them with water every other day or so, but do not soak or cover them. Use dechlorinated water for this and some like to use methilyn blue to help prevent fungus growth. The tadpoles will start to form and their growth will be easily monitored. They will stay inside the sac for approximately 2-3 weeks and you can start to see movement of the tads in about a week or so. Once the tadpoles start to break through the egg sac, more water will need to be added to help them along. When the tads break the will be pretty motionless for a few days and I like to leave them in the small dish for about 4 days before transferring them. Once the four days has passed the tadpoles can be moved to a small cup with dechlorinated water and some java. Depending on the species they may need to be in seperate cups. D. Leucomelas are notorious for cannibalism and should always be housed seperately. Tadpoles that do not share this method of survival can be housed in small tanks with Java moss and other aquatic plants. 

These newly hatched tadpoles will not move very much for the first few days and do not be alarmed. Sometimes they may even flip over and look dead. I usually leave these guys alone until I see mold growing on them. Then I can be sure that they have passed. The Java is there as a food source and for hiding purposes. Some use oak leaves and even sphagnum moss in their tadpole set-ups. I find that the sphagnum clouds the water a bit and I tend not to use it at all. 

The "Thumbnail" species sometimes are egg feeders so these are best to be left for the parents to care for. This means that the mother lays unfertilized eggs in the water for the tads to eat. This is a hard food source to replicate and is best left to the experts. The tadpoles that are commonly cared for by the hobbyist is mostly fed a high qaulity fish flake that is Spirulina based. Some breeders like myself use frozen bloodworms. These are dethawed in a cup of dechlorinated water and then poured into the individual cups. The D. Leucomelas tads seem to prefer the bloodworms over the fishflakes and so I feed that to them more often. I use this method of feeding 1-2 times a week. The tads I have worked with have mostly taken about 2-2 1/2 months to morph into froglets, but some have taken longer. In my experience the banded Leuc's have taken a couple months longer to morph compared to the standard Leuc's. 

Froglet care: A large tubberware or a small tank will do for housing your froglets. I use 10 gallon tanks for mine. I put sphagnum moss in the bottom and a few pothos in there as well. A coco hut or small plastic pot turned over is a good hiding spot for the juveniles. The tank can have springtails introduced into it before the froglets are put in it to get started breeding in the set-up. I like to feed them D. Melanos every day or every other day dusted with supplements to keep them growing fat. Chubby juveniles are a must for me when it comes to breeding Dendrobatidae. Misting every once in a while and checking on all the froglets every day is important to make sure they are all feeding well. After 2-3 months the froglets should be ok to sell or trade off for other frogs. If you lose a froglet or two do not worry, these little guys are so fragile and not all of them will make it. This is completely normal. Good luck and Happy Frogging!